DIY Garden Fence

The DIY project that kickstarted Pinch Me, I’m Home!

Prep for post Installation

While your posts are drying, start measuring out the fence area with a measuring tape.  

Hammer a stake in the ground at a corner of your fence.   Tie your mason line to the stake and continue straight down the length of fence. Add stakes at the corners as you continue the mason line around the perimeter of the fence. This mason line will help you set your fence posts in a straight line. 

You can check that your corner is square by using the 3-4-5 rule. Measure three feet down one side of your corner and mark the string line. Then, measure 4 feet down the other side and mark. The distance between those two marks should be exactly 5 feet. If it’s not, adjust your stakes until you achieve that distance.

Use your marking spray on the grass to identify where the post hole should be.  I started with one corner and continued straight along that length of the fence and continued in that order until I completed the entire perimeter of the fence. TIP: Pay attention to any curve or slant of the ground that is not level.  My yard was lower on the eastern side. Your spacing might be different than mine depending on the area of your fence. See my garden fence layout above with measurements for spacing under Step 1.

Digging Holes

After posts spots are marked, determine the depth of your holes. Typically you want a whole depth about 1/3-1/2 of your post. Each post was 6 feet tall (72 inches).  I measured and marked on my hole digger with electrical tape the depth (24 inches for me). This helped me when I was digging to know exactly when to stop. I adjusted the depth of the posts on the eastern side slightly due to the slant of my ground.

The diameter of each hole should be about 12 inches wide with a 4×4 post; you usually want a diameter about 3x the width of the post.

Step 3: Post Installation

My husband Thomas helped me set the first few posts, and then I got in a rhythm and did the rest by myself. You should brace each of your 4x4x6 posts while the concrete cures with stakes and 2x4s.

You’ll need your leveler, 6 bags of Quickrete (50 pound per bag), 3 bags of gravel (50 pounds per bag), drill, wood screws, stakes, and 2×4 scraps, water in a large bucket or hose near by, gloves (it gets messy), and shovel.

How to set a post (easier with two people, but can be done by yourself)-FIRST, put on your gloves!

1. Pour all purpose gravel into the hole until about 6 inches is filled. I used an old coffee can to fill the hole with gravel.
2. Add your 4x4x6 post inside the hole. Compact and level the gravel with your post.
3. Set your post in the hole and use your level to position the post perfectly vertically.
4. Pour about half of your 50 pound bag of fast setting Quickrete into the hole until you reach about 3-4 inches above ground level. I used my coffee can again to pour around the post.
5. Double check that your post is perfectly vertical with your level.
6. Brace the post with stakes and 2x4s so nothing shifts when you add water.
7. Next saturate the Quickrete with water. Allow the water to saturate the concrete and then pour a little more, and repeat till finished. TIP: Try to hold the post as straight as possible-if needed drill a stake/scrap wood to the lower side of the post to help keep the post stay in position. See picture A for reference
8. Use a shovel if needed to break up any air bubbles in concrete.
9. Double check that your post is perfectly vertical with your level.
10. Quickrete will set in 20-40 minutes.
11. Repeat 11 more times. TIP: use a 2x4x8 in between each post with a level to double check your post heights are the same before you set the post! This will eliminate a step later on with trimming all your post tops.

Wait at least 4 hours before starting the next step. This a great time to start painting your 2x4x8 posts for Step 4!

Step 4: Paint, Measure, Cut, and Install Horizontal Posts

IF you chose to paint or stain your wood, go ahead and paint your 42 2x4x8 posts two times now. (Or Skip this part)

Installing a horizontal post along the length of the fence.

Step 5: Middle Vertical Support Posts Install

I decided to add a middle vertical board for support between my two horizontal pieces. It also helped later when I was installing the wire fencing.

1. Measure the distance between the top and bottom horizontal pieces. Distance should be 3 ft and 9 inches or 45 inches.
2. You’ll need five 2x4x8 boards.
3. Cut each board down to 3ft and 9 inches or 45 inches with your saw of choice. This will give you 10 boards at 3ft and 9inch boards. (cut boards according to your measurements)
4. I chose to use a Kreg pocket hole jig and drill two pocket holes on both ends of the 2×4 boards.
5. Drill two pocket holes on both ends of the 2×4 boards.
6. Measure halfway on each top and bottom horizontal board and mark location with pencil.
7. Clamp the perpendicular boards together at the top. Use a speed square and level to check that your post is perfectly vertical and square.
8. Use your drill and coordinating Kreg drill bit. You will need four 2 1/2″ Kreg screws for each middle vertical post.
9. Repeat steps 1-8 for each middle vertical board until all 10 have been installed.

Step 6: The Gate (optional)

I knew I wanted a wooden X gate centered in the center of the fence. If you’d like to purchase a different style door or gate already made go for it! Or if you simple want to leave this section open-you do you babe! Just make sure the width between your two gate posts will work with your gate!

My gate is a bit oversized but I love that I can haul a wheelbarrow through it with no problem at all!

Steps for gate:

Step 7: Install Galvanized Wire Mesh Fencing

I’m going to be really honest. There were multiple moments in this installation part of the project when I wanted to just give up. I don’t say that to say you can’t or shouldn’t do it because you 100% can do this. It would’ve been MUCH easier with another person helping me at the beginning. But unfortunately, I was completing my project during nap times and my husband was at work. I did learn some tips to help you along the way. There are multiple ways to install fencing, this is just what worked for me.

Steps to install fencing

• I started at the front corner of my fence. I’d highly recommend you start in the BACK corner of your fence. I got better with more practice tightening the fencing as I went. The back is just less noticeable as you’re learning. WEAR GLOVES
• I measured about 6 feet of fencing, laid it on the ground, and cut it down to size.
• It was easier to work with smaller sections vs the whole roll because it was so heavy at the beginning.
• I chose to staple on the inside of the fence because I didn’t want my staples to show on the outside. (Your preference)
• Staple the fencing along the length of the 4×4 post from the top to the bottom. Continue stapling the fencing on the horizontal pieces about halfway to the middle vertical support posts. STOP
• Weave the tension bar in the fencing squares right past the middle vertical support posts. Then use the flat pry bar to pull the fence tight. Continue doing this all the way down the length of the middle vertical support post. Check the tension of the fencing. When it’s to your preference, continue stapling the fencing on the horizontal pieces about halfway to the 4×4 post. STOP
• Weave the tension bar in the fencing squares right past the 4×4 posts. Then use the flat pry bar to pull the fence tight. Continue doing this all the way down the 4×4 post. See video clip below for more help!

You will repeat this process for the entire perimeter of the fence. As the wire fencing roll got smaller, I just rolled it along the fence line and cut it standing up. The corners were the trickiest parts for me. I found adding a little extra length helped when stapling the fencing to the corner posts. I intertwined the two perpendicular pieces of the fencing on the corner posts and stapled.

Step 8: Add post toppers (optional)

I knew I wanted to add some decorative post toppers to my 4×4 posts before I even started building the fence. I did have to trim up a few 4×4 posts with my saw because a few were slightly uneven. If you followed my tips above when you installed your 4×4 posts, I’m hoping you got to skip this trimming step!

Adding the post toppers was pretty easy and straight forward.

1. Center the post cap on top of the 4×4 post.
2. Drill a pilot hole through the center of the predrilled hole into the 4×4 post.
3. Attach the ball topper on top of the post cap by twisting the screw into the pilot hole until secure. I did use a wrench to adjust the screw a little.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 until all post toppers are secure.
5. Paint toppers and caps if needed.

Step 9: Add plants and flowers! But most importantly, enjoy this beautiful space!

In my next garden phase, I want to add raised garden beds along with a gravel path! I hope you enjoyed this DIY tutorial and feel confident tackling your own space in your yard!

And don’t worry Arnie and Jack didn’t seem to mind the fence one bit!